Hike Akkar Al-Atiqa: Ancient Fortress and a Mesmerizing Waterfall

Nestled in the northernmost reaches of Lebanon, Akkar stands as a testament to the country’s untouched beauty and cultural richness. This unique governorate, located approximately 110 kilometers north of Beirut, is Lebanon’s only province with a single district—Akkar District. Stretching from the Nahr al-Bared River in the south to the Naher el Kabir river bordering Syria in the north, it spans 776 square kilometers, with Halba as its capital.

But Akkar is more than just coordinates on a map—it is a living, breathing canvas of green expanses, flowing rivers, and centuries-old heritage that invites you to explore and lose yourself in its wonders.

Nature’s Symphony: Rivers, Forests, and Rare Wildlife

Akkar is a paradise for nature lovers, where every glance reveals rivers weaving through the landscape, waterfalls cascading gracefully, and diverse forests that house rare plants, vibrant wildflowers, and unique fungi. It’s a sanctuary for wildlife, home to squirrels, rabbits, and even hyenas, offering a rare glimpse of an ecosystem that thrives in harmony.

Each visit to Akkar feels like a new discovery. Its landscapes evolve with the seasons, each more stunning than the last. I’ve wandered through the majestic Oudin Valley in Andakit—one of Lebanon’s longest valleys—and ventured to Oyoun al-Samak, Qammouaa, Fnaidek, and the distinctive Al Ezer Forest, not to mention the awe-inspiring Wadi Jhenam (Hell Valley).

Yet, this beauty faces threats. The enchanting Al Ezer Forest, with its rare orchids and wild plants, is shrinking under the weight of human encroachment. Even the playful squirrels and other creatures are caught in the crossfire of ignorance and greed. Akkar’s breathtaking wilderness calls for preservation and respect, reminding us of nature’s fragility.

Every step here is an adventure, a connection to the land’s raw, unfiltered beauty.

Akkar Al-Atiqa: A Village of Hospitality and Wonder

Our latest journey brought us to Akkar Al-Atiqa, a village where nature’s gifts flow freely and hospitality abounds. This charming community, perched at an elevation of 700 to 1,600 meters above sea level, is known for its long cascading waterfall, pristine rivers, and fertile lands brimming with apples and vegetables.

The locals, generous with their harvest, embody the spirit of Akkar. The village even boasts a cooperative that produces apple cider vinegar, which is exported internationally—a testament to their ingenuity and sustainability.

We started our hike with a heartfelt welcome from the local scouts, their energy setting the tone for a day filled with discovery. Rain accompanied us as we explored the waterfalls and rivers, only for the sun to break through as we ascended higher. This magical interplay of weather seemed to echo the duality of Akkar: wild yet serene, untamed yet welcoming.

In Akkar Al-Atiqa, water is everywhere during this time of the year—rivers, springs, and waterfalls emerge at every turn. Just when you think you’ve left a river behind, another greets you with its own charm, flowing through landscapes of wild grass, blooming flowers, rocky cliffs, and rolling hills.

Adding to the allure are forgotten historical structures that dot the riverbanks, remnants of a time untouched by modernity’s relentless advance. These timeless ruins stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings.

Akkar Fortress: A Tale of Legacy and Defiance

The highlight of the hiking adventure was the majestic Akkar Fortress, a historical gem that embodies the region’s resilience. The origins of this fortress date back to around the year 1000 AD when it was built by Muhriz bin Akkar, the very figure who likely gave his name to the region. Over the centuries, waves of civilizations left their mark upon it, and the Crusaders, recognizing its strategic importance, reinforced its walls and expanded its structures, transforming it into one of the most formidable castles of its time.

But history has a way of weaving unexpected narratives, and few in Lebanon have not heard the tale of how the stones of this very fortress found their way to Deir el-Qamar, used to build the grand palaces of Emir Fakhreddine. Yet, the distance between Akkar and Deir el-Qamar—both geographically and symbolically—was vast.

At its peak, the castle stood as a stronghold of the Sayfa family, powerful rivals of the Maan dynasty, who both vied for control over the region. Despite the shifting tides of alliances and betrayals, tensions between the two clans remained high—even after a son of Emir Fakhreddine II married a daughter of the Sayfas. Yet, even marriage could not mend the deep-seated animosities.

One fateful day, this Maan prince, already viewed with suspicion by his wife’s kin, was taunted by his brother-in-law for his short stature—an insult that struck a nerve, especially coming from the Sayfas, who were known for their towering heights, in stark contrast to the famously shorter Maans. What followed was a siege that sealed the fate of the fortress. After a prolonged battle, it was destroyed, fulfilling the words of an oath attributed to the Maan emir himself—an oath that would later be immortalized in song by the Rahbanis:

"We may be small in the eyes of our foes, yet we stand tall,
You are mere poplar wood, and we are the saw that cuts it,
By the life of Taybeh, Zamzam, and the Prophet of God,
No home shall be built unless from the stones of Akkar."

True to his word, to this day, remnants of those very stones—golden-hued and weathered by time—can still be seen embedded in the noble palaces of Deir el-Qamar, silent witnesses to a history shaped by power, rivalry, and an unbreakable legacy.

The Call of Akkar

Akkar is not just a destination—it is a journey into Lebanon’s untold stories. Its rivers, forests, and stories whisper the secrets of a land untouched by time, inviting travelers to pause, reflect, and reconnect with the essence of nature and heritage.

For those who seek adventure and inspiration, Akkar awaits with open arms and boundless wonders. Make sure to connect with local guides for an immersive experience, or reach out to Nidal Majdalani for expert guidance on discovering the best of the region.

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