Wadi Al Salib: Keserwan's Heritage Trail Through Nature's Beauty

My journey today takes me to Kfardebian, but not the Kfardebian of archaeological sites, restaurants, chalets, or palaces. Instead, I am venturing into the heart of Kfardebian’s natural beauty, its rich history,  and the old traditional village—specifically, Wadi Al Salib (the Valley of the Cross). To this day, the exact origin of its name remains uncertain. Some say it was named after a lost cross belonging to a passing monk; others point to a carved stone known as the “Cross Rock” or believe it symbolizes the wars and famines endured by locals in earlier times. There is also the theory that multiple rivers converge here in a cruciform shape.

Kfardebian: A Vast Village with Ancient Roots

Kfardebian is one of the largest villages in Lebanon, spanning 40 km². It lies 44 km from Beirut at an elevation ranging from 600 to 2,800 meters above sea level. Its name has Syriac origins and translates to “Village of the Deer.” Historical evidence suggests the village dates back at least 6,000 years, as indicated by prominent sites like Faqra Ruins. Alongside its archaeological significance, Kfardebian is known for its apple orchards and ski resorts.

Wadi Al Salib: A Scenic Hike Through History

This hike unfolds in the valley, heading toward the river that is fed by two natural springs known locally as the “Milk Spring” and the “Honey Spring.” Wadi Al Salib lies in the Keserwan District and stretches between Al Qleiat, Kfardebian, and Faytroun, naturally separating the Metn and Keserwan areas. Land ownership here is a patchwork of church properties and private holdings from neighboring villages.

A Legacy of Agriculture and Community

According to Kfardebian’s residents, settlement in the valley began around 1613. Thanks to its fertile soil, Wadi Al Salib was once a popular destination for those seeking fresh fruits, vegetables, and various local produce. It became a hub for silkworm cultivation, as well as wheat, bulgur, and olive processing. By 1957, the last family (Al Kaai) left, rendering the valley deserted. Major migrations had already occurred in 1914 and again during World War II due to drought and hunger, when the valley’s water was diverted to support the mandate army stationed there.

Traces of this once-thriving life remain, offering a glimpse into the past and a hopeful vision for the future. There is real optimism for the valley’s revival, as I will detail in this account of our recent hike.

Morning Descent Amid Nature’s Symphony

A couple of weeks ago, my friends and I parked in the village and headed downhill to the river—a less strenuous route, since you descend first rather than finish with an ascent. From there, we continued to the Al Qleiat–Kfardebian bridge, covering around seven kilometers. Some left their cars near the bridge, but you can also arrange local transport back to the starting point. The villagers were extremely helpful, based on my personal experience.

We began our trek around 8:30 AM, accompanied by the melodic songs of birds. The sun was still hidden behind the mountains, so we enjoyed the morning shade. The rainfall that week had been heavy, washing the surroundings clean but also making the remnants of the Roman-era steps slippery—something followers on my Instagram live broadcast noticed. These steps are known to be the second-longest Roman staircase in Lebanon after those in Jabal Moussa. It wasn’t long before the sound of rushing water reached our ears, driving us onward despite the rocky trail at the start.

One of the first historical landmarks we encountered was an old mill, reached by crossing an Ottoman bridge spanning the River of the Cross. Built in 1898 by Mutasarrif Raja Pasha (according to local historian Nasib Aakiki), this single-arch bridge was once vital for muleteers and travelers connecting Kfardebian and surrounding villages to the Keserwan coast. The same river is known as Nahr El Kalb (Dog River) where it meets the sea.

According to Mr. Aakiki, 150 ruins have been recorded in this region, with 45 still visible. They include two churches in the territory shared by Faytroun and Al Qleiat.

Preserving and Reviving Wadi Al Salib: A Journey Through Heritage and Eco-Tourism

It was remarkable to see the collective efforts of residents and neighboring communities to preserve Wadi Al Salib’s heritage and natural beauty. They halted unauthorized building projects, prevented quarries from operating nearby, and put a stop to the theft of stones from old houses and mills (including ancient olive trees). An iron gate at the Al Qleiat–Kfardebian bridge entrance helps control access, especially for visitors arriving from the Metn side. Most villagers remain in the area through winter despite harsh weather, and ongoing initiatives aim to classify the valley as a protected natural and cultural reserve.

One of the most uplifting sights during our hike was a beautifully restored house, part of a project backed by the European Union and the Ministry of Administrative Development. This initiative aims to restore at least 40 homes and mills, along with rehabilitating the valley’s trails as part of “returning to our roots.” So far, three homes have been renovated, as well as the nearly collapsed Ottoman bridge and a wooden bridge. Managed by the Association for the Development of Heritage and Culture under the supervision of the Union of Keserwan Municipalities, the project’s goal is to encourage property owners to restore their land and transform the valley into an eco-tourism hub with guesthouses—breathing new life into this traditional village setting.

Spiritual Traditions and Community Gatherings

A treasured tradition still observed here is the annual Mass celebrating the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul on June 29. Residents of Al Qleiat, Kfardebian, and Faytroun come together in the courtyard of a church that was partially destroyed by a fallen boulder. You can still see the cross engraved on the altar and the remaining archway of the structure.

Encounters and Reflections in Wadi Al Salib

We had a delightful encounter with a genial shepherd tending his flock. We also met several Lebanese and foreign families of all ages. You can catch brief video snippets of our meeting with the shepherd and other details on my Instagram page.

Among the many charms of this valley is a designated picnic area complete with benches for resting, taking in the scenery, and reflecting on the Creator’s blessings. All that is asked of visitors is to keep the area clean—after all, #مش_كل_ما_كزدرنا_وسّخنا_ورانا (not every outing should leave a mess behind).

Sunset Over Keserwan and Hopes for Heritage Preservation

I leave you with images of the sunset glowing above the valley and the mountains of Keserwan, hoping other villages and towns follow Kfardebian’s lead. Preserving heritage while sparking mindful development ensures we never lose the warmth and authenticity of our past, no matter how far technology propels us into the future.

You can stay updated on my travels through the Stories on my Instagram and Facebook pages.

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